A couple of days rest at Camp 2 and Michael will set off to tackle the Lhotse face on his way to Camp 3.
Michael spent 30 April and 1 May resting at Camp 2 (6400m) and planning the next move up the Lhotse Face with the other climbers. Their next target, Camp 3 (7400m), is located about half way up the Lhotse face, which rises some 5000 feet in total from Camp 2. Everyone has some apprehension about this portion of the climb, including Michael. A couple of the Adventure Consultants guides went ahead to Camp 3 today (1 May) and should be arriving even as this update is written.
Now if you've wondered what kind of abode one inhabits at Camp 2 for hours of reading, listening to music, napping and generally recovering from the previous climb and preparing for the next, check out Mark's digs below.
Summiting Everest appears to be one way to free oneself of those pesky rent inspections.
Sunday, April 29, 2007
Resting at Camp 2
Michael Writes From Everest
Hear what Michael had to say about his trip when he took a few minutes to tap away during his most recent visit to Base Camp.
The Journey So Far
The trek into Base Camp was amazing––stunningly beautiful. Adventure Consultants had a twenty member team that followed us into Base Camp. As you know, thousands of people hike to Everest BC every year, but very few go on to climb the mountain. The trekkers had a great time but found it very hard going with one of the members needing to be placed in a temporary oxygen chamber––and death may certainly have been possible.
For many of the trekkers making it to Base Camp was the highlight of their physical lives. Once the climbers made it to BC we had four days or so to rest and acclimatise and get ready for our first trip to the Ice Fall. The ice fall is a randomly jumbled block of ice and crevasses that rises 700m into the western cwm. The first time up we only went half way––it was absolutely exhausting for everyone. This was the real dividing line between the climbers and the trekkers––I daresay none of the trekkers could have done it. We are talking the equivalent of a marathon or up and down bluff knoll four times in a row. We were all shattered and disappointed. Apparently this is the norm for all climbers on their first time up.
After that first climb in the ice fall we had two days rest before climbing all the way up to Camp 1. It was easier this time to get to our previous highpoint on the ice fall, but going twice the distance all the way to Camp 1 was still shattering. We crossed about twenty ladders that span the crevasses––very scary at first as the crampons do not stick on the ladder rungs but slide, and the ladders themselves sway in all three directions––but you do get used to them after a while. I learned quickly not to look down (as the crevasses can drop forever) and to concentrate on the rungs and my crampon points. The ice fall moves about four meters per day and so the route up and down constantly changes. There are ice fall doctors who are employed by all the expeditions to keep the ice fall route open––it’s the most dangerous job on the mountain and every year there will be fatalities.
The reward at getting to the top of the ice fall is that you break out into the Western cwm––a massive almost valley that snakes its way up to the Lhotse face––surrounded on all side by either Everest and other mountains, including Nuptse. Edumund Hillary described this as one of the most beautiful sights on earth and most of our climbing team agreed.
The next day we traveled to Camp 2. Once again, from what we had read, this was meant to be an ok day. But now we know that on Everest nothing ever comes easy. Again all the marathoners on the team (ie. Most of the team) agreed that the journey from Camp 1 to Camp 2 was the equivalent of a marathon or more. However, the more we walked and climbed, the more we started to see the upper shores of Mt Everest open up before our eyes before finally, after three long weeks, we actually got to see the summit of the mountain we have all dreamed about climbing.
We stayed at Camp 2 for two nights and then ascended to the base of the Lhotse face. This was an amazing achievement as we arrived at 7000m far earlier than most other teams seeking to climb Everest this season. It was just a day trip for acclimatisation but we were able to see the route to Camp 3. We returned to Camp 2 to sleep before descending to Base Camp in one day. This was, by far, the most exhausting day yet and marked my third vomit of the trip and marked the end of the first third of our time here at Everest.
We’re now resting at Base Camp. On Friday we move back up the mountain with the goal of spending 8 days on the mountain. Our primary goal is to sleep one night at Camp 3 at 7300m. If we can do this then it essentially means we’re ready to go back down to Base Camp to rest for a week before making our summit bid. Many successful Everest climbers have actually said this trip to Camp 3 is the crux of the trip. When you go to Camp 3 for the second time––on the summit bid––you go on to support oxygen straight away. But the first time up you have to prove yourself worthy of the mountain and sleep on your own lungs. I don’t think anyone really sleeps or eats 7300m.
In all honesty, I am scared and nervous about this next trip up as it will be a real test of my acclimatisation and strength. The guides have been extremely diligent and gave us all performance appraisals for our climbing so far. They believe I can summit the mountain, but only if I improve my caloric intake. It’s something I really need to concentrate on. Their goal for me is that whilst I’m climbing I always have something in my mouth––even if it’s just hard candy. The altitude does mess with my appetite. This has probably been the hardest time of my life. It is very easy to get down, agitated, depressed, nervous and home sick. But I always know in the back of my head that there is a job that needs to be done to the best of my ability. In the end, the outcome of this trip is in my Creator’s hands.
BC -> C1 -> C2
After a minor hiccup at Base Camp, Michael and his comrades-in-climbing made excellent progress through to the now-familiar sites of Camp 1 and Camp 2.
After waking up at 4am on 27 April to begin an 8-day journey on the mountain, Michael and the team discovered that the ice fall route between base camp and camp 1 had been closed due to an avalanche. Avalanches aren't uncommon, but it was back to base camp for another day of enforced rest and general shenanigans (see Chuck––possibly a direct descendent of Santa Claus––practising his tight-rope walking skills below). The icefall route was cleared and opened later in the afternoon.
The next morning, 28 April, saw the team set off amid blustery conditions. The team climbed smoothly and strongly through the morning, arriving at Camp 1 (6100m) by 11.30am. The image above shows the tents at Camp 1, where Michael napped, read and prepared for the next day's elevation gain to Camp 2.
Heading out into a cold morning on 29 April, Michael and his fellow climbers made excellent progress to Camp 2. They made the journey in 4 hours, with only 30 minutes separating the front of the climbing group from the rear. Above is a picture of small avalanche they witnessed on the way up. By all accounts they are climbing strongly and acclimatising well. Mark observed that the team's appetites have improved and that the air felt thicker at this altitude, which is all great news for their continued progress.
Thursday, April 26, 2007
Last Rest Day Before Climb to Camp 3
Today Michael enjoys his last day of rest at Base Camp before heading off for his second extended foray up the mountain.
Tomorrow morning Michael will eat breakfast and set out early before the heat of the day unsettles the ice fall. His goal is to spend 8 days on the mountain, reaching and sleepint at Camp 3, which is found on the Lhotse face at 7300m. Completing this part of the climb will mean he's ready to descend to Base Camp to rest for about a week before pushing to Camp 4 and a summit attempt. Things are heating up, but the climbing team still found time for a group photo.
Pictured
Back: Luis, Seb, Mark, Baxter, Guy
Middle: Michael, Suze, Mike, Cat, Chuck, Cedric
Front: Chris, Andrea, Frank, Dave
Wednesday, April 25, 2007
Base Camp-o Relax-o
Base Camp has been taken over by the rhythm of rest and recovery. And that's easier for some climbers than others.
Michael spent 24 April not basking in the glory of Everest but attending to the rudimentary––laundry, eating, resting and generally meandering around camp. His acclimatisation is going well. The evening meal of salmon pasta was celebrated with a disco theme. Judging from the picture below, Michael is also investing considerable energy in growing some kind of facial hair accompaniment... Pulp Fiction [imdb] was the movie of choice.
The rest cycle continued on 25 April with general shenanigans, discussions about politics and what constitutes good music (Mike we love you but you're no authority on this one), and showering.
Tomorrow, Michael will set off for another trip up the Mountain. The goal this time will be to spend around 8 days on the mountain reaching Camp 3 (7300m) and spending a night there. Seasoned Everest climbers regard this as the crux of the trip. If Michael is able to complete this leg, he'll have the physical and mental resources to make a successful summit bid. The next time he'd see Camp 3 would be to pick up some additional oxygen support on his way to the summit, weather permitting.
Monday, April 23, 2007
Back at Base Camp
Base Camp is a relief after Michael's first week on the hill. The entire team is now back and continuing to work hard at recovery by doing not very much.
The final 2 climbers returned to Base Camp yesterday and they are all soaking up the splendid weather, culinary delights from the kitchen staff and the comparatively warm temperatures. Being able to shower, shave and change has led to feelings of cleanliness and relief! Michael and crew watched The World's Fastest Indian [imdb] yesterday afternoon. Importantly his appetite is improved at Base Camp and the kitchen staff are obliging all the climbers. Below is a picture of Cedric (USA) passing through an ice arch:
How does acclimatisation work?
The concentration of oxygen at sea level is about 21%. The higher one goes the lower the barometric pressure. For example, at about 3,650m the barometric pressure is less than 65% of sea level pressures meaning less oxygen molecules per breath. To properly oxygenate one's body the breathing rate has to increase––but it can't reach sea level concentrations, so the body must adjust to having less oxygen while it is climbing a mountain!
With time, one's body adapts to the decreased availability of oxygen at a given altitude. This usually takes 1 to 3 days at that altitude and is known as acclimatisation. By spending 1 to 3 days at particular altitudes the body adapts by increasing the depth of respiration, the pressure in pulmonary arteries goes up forcing blood into parts of the lung not used at sea level, the body produces more oxygen-carrying red blood cells as well as a particular enzyme that helps release oxygen from hemoglobin to the body tissues.
It's not unusual to experience mild symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) during acclimatisation. Some of these include: headache, dizziness, fatigue, shortness of breath, loss of appetite, nausea, disturbed sleep and generally feeling pretty shabby. These usually subside within a couple of days as the body acclimatises.
So that's why Michael will be up and down the mountain about 3 times in all.
Sunday, April 22, 2007
An exercise in up and down
Michael has reached another milestone with the Camp 2 acclimatisation process complete.
Today, the full team will be assembled at Base Camp for a multi-day rest cycle in anticipation of another foray up the Mountain. But that wasn't without an additional climb beyond Camp 2 and the longest descent so far.
On 21 April Michael took his second acclimatisation walk beyond Camp 2, arriving at the base of the Lhotse face. Michael will need to climb this wall of glacial blue ice, which rises about 1,125m, using fixed ropes later. It rises at a 40-50 degree pitch with some 80 degree 'bulges' as well. But that's all coming up... The picture above features the climbing team in front of the face of nearby Nuptse.
Michael and his climbing compadres commenced their descent from Camp 2 at 6am on 22 April in windy, cold conditions. Working in three small groups, the first two groups arrived in Camp 1 by 7.45am and by 4pm all three groups were back at Base Camp. Pictured above: Two climbers, Cedric and Mike (not our Mike), are spending an additional night at Camp 2 and will arrive at Base Camp sometime today.
It sounds as if things are progressing well, the climbers are healthy and the plan is proving successful. By all accounts the weather has been great and with some rest and recuperation they should be set to commence their next climbs shortly. We hope to hear from Micahel while he's at Base Camp & we'll make excerpts from his diary available through The West Australian news updates.
While we can't promise anything––Michael's focus is on climbing––feel free to post any brief questions you might have for Michael and we may be able to glean some more insights while he's at Base Camp.
Wednesday, April 18, 2007
Camp 2: 6,400m and climbing
Arrival at Camp 2, sweltering Everest heat, burritos and bug-eyed bathroom shenanigans. It's all part of the journey...
Michael arrived safely at Camp 2 on 18 April after an early morning start. The team sweltered in the heat of the sheltered Western Cym and enjoyed breathtaking scenery like this shot of some sherpas beneath the face of Lhotse.
They arrived at Camp 2 and the effects of the new altitude (6400m) was apparent. The team rested the next day and enjoyed a gentle afternoon snow shower (below) while dining on burritos–-perhaps that explains the bug-eyed bathroom visits more so than the altitude?
Camp 2 is an advanced base camp. That means there's lots of gear and extra supplies to fuel more climbing down the track. Michael and the other climbers have a heated dining tent and two full-time kitchen staff at Camp 2. As far as hardy Everest climbs go, this is a little piece of gourmet at 6400m altitude! Here's a picture of Camp 2 from a distance:
After resting on 19 April, some of the climbers––including Michael––set out for a gentle meander today (20 April). By all reports the day was magnificent with some great views of Cho Oyu, a peak Michael visited in 2004. Here's a picture of Micahel with Chuck, Seb, Andrea & Dave.
All up Michael gained an additional 200m in altitude on this climb before returning to Camp 2. Tomorrow the team will attempt to climb higher to the base of the Lhotse face.
Tuesday, April 17, 2007
'Twas a Stormy Night
A snowy stormy night passes to reveal breathtaking views of the southwest face of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse.
The climbing team enjoys breakfast together after a bit of a sleep in. It was well-earned after the punishing first climb to Camp 1. Now it's just a matter of adjusting to the new altitude and recovering. Tomorrow, Michael will be up early and heading off to Camp 2.
Monday, April 16, 2007
Safe Arrival at Camp 1
Michael and the other climbers have made it to Everest Camp 1!
The team left Base Camp at about 5am yesterday morning for a long 8+ hour climb to Camp 1 (6100m) with temperatures ranging from -10 to +30. From midday onwards yesterday the climbers arrived, exhausted, at Camp 1 where they turned their attention to resting, recovery and rehydration.
This is a signifcant step on the journey as Michael has now navigated the technical ropes and ladders required for the Khumbu Icefall. From Camp 1 Michael can see the Western Cym (Cym being Welsh for 'valley'), which is bordered by Everest to the North, Lhotse to the East and Nuptse to the South. Reports are the views are spectacular with the top of Everest seen poking through the clouds.
All up the team will be on Mt Everest for 7 days, pushing beyond Camp 1 to Camp 2 and the base of Lhotse at 7000m. This is one of three concerted pushes up the mountain. Before departing, Michael said: "I think everyone in camp is feeling similarly to me: a little nervous about the pain we know is coming, but also looking forward to seeing the mountain."
Sunday, April 15, 2007
Khumbu, Borat and Beyond
Over the last couple of days things have certainly ramped up at Mt Everest. Michael is on his way up the Hill for his first trip to Camp 1.
On April 13 Michael finally had his first trip beyond Base Camp. The team spent about 3 hours on the Khumbu Icefall, climbing almost halfway to Camp 1, which involves a gain in elevation of some 300m. The icefall is a dangerous. Apart from one particularly interesting crevasse (get video) the climb was relatively uneventful. 
But that's not to say it wasn't taxing. Several of the climbers on the team have run marathons and they likened the three hour climb at 5,000m to running a marathon. In Michael's words: "Just got back from first climb up the mountain. I am exhausted... Absolutely."
The next day, April 14, was a welcomed rest day. The kitchen team (pictured) brought hot drinks and hot towels to Michael and his mates. Over breakfast the team discussed the merits of the film Borat, which they viewed the previous evening. Apparently the entire team did not quite appreciate the style or content of the film––but where are you going to go? I'm confident Michael was enthusiastic in his support for some comic relief.
Yesterday was April 15 and another day of active rest at Base Camp. But unlike the previous rest day, the camp was full of activity as Michael and the other climbers and guides (pictured) prepared their packs to head up the Mountain. It sounds as if a consistent feature of the emotional climate on the trip has been a mixture of nerves and excitement. With loads packed and checked it was time to relax and prepare for the effort ahead. Michael will spend his first night on the mountain tonight (April 16) and we hope to have word from the team shortly.
Saturday, April 14, 2007
The West Australian Update 14 April 2007
The West Australian continues to track Michael's progress. Read the latest here.
Friday, April 13, 2007
Preparing for the Khumbu Icefalls
Puja ceremonies, the sounds of avalanches at night and icy obstacle courses. It's all happening on the hill. 
On April 11, the climbing team celebrated another Puja ceremony at Base Camp, complete with Sherpa's singing & dancing while a Lama recites prayers, cymbals clashed, drums banged and drinks passed around. It's all part of the traditional request for safe passage and success, and without it the Sherpas refuse to climb beyond Base Camp. You can download a short clip courtesy of Adventure Consultants here. It sounds like Michael and his fellow climbers are quite relaxed amidst the intesity of snow wind squalls, the cold, the altitude and the sounds of avalanches at night!
Yesterday, April 12, saw Michael and the other climbers spend the morning organising their climbing equipment in preparation for training and the eventual steps up Everest beyond base camp. Some sherpas have started to carry loads to Camp 1 and Camp 2 in anticipation of the team's arrival in the next few days. Today, they organised their gear and tested themselves on an obstacle course at the base of the icefall.
The route Michael will take through the ice fall is a winding path of fixed ropes and ladder climbs and crossings. He should be able to hear the glacier creaking and cracking as they cross it repeatedly on journeys between Base Camp and Camp 1. Needless to say, training days like today's are vital for cultivating the focus required to climb the icefall safely.
Tuesday, April 10, 2007
Feasting by the Mountain
Michael and team enjoy a rest day that culminates in a high-altitude party!
So far the Adventure Consultants team has consisted of two groups: the trekking team and the climbing team. The trekking team accomplished their goal of making it to the Everest base camp yesterday and celebrated their feat with the climbing team in style. Nothing like a party on the side of an enormous rock to buoy everyone's spirits––the glee is clearly on their faces in this image! After feasting in style last night, the trekking team heads down today and the climbing team, of which Michel is part, continues their physical and mental preparation. In the spirit of preparation, here are some facts about The Mountain:
• In Nepal, it's name (Sagarmatha) means 'goddess of the sky'
• In Tibet, it's name (Chomolungma) means 'mother goddess of the universe'
• Everest rises a few millimeters each year because of geological forces
• Babu Chiri Sherpa spent 21.5hrs without oxygen at the top of the summit for the longest time at the top––even sleeping there.
• Babu Chiri Sherpa is worth reading more about. Get to know him here and here.
Monday, April 9, 2007
Welcome to Base Camp
While much of the world celebrated Easter, Michael and his climbing team made an elevated journey to the Mt Everest Base Camp, where a whole new journey is about to begin.
On April 5 the team trekked to Pheriche (4240m) where the climbers participated in a traditional Puja ceremony. This hindu ceremony involves the offering of prayers and blessings for safety and success. You can see Michael being blessed by Llama Geshe above. The team stayed a The White Yak (if you're ever in the vicinity you can check it out here) for two nights to acclimatise to the new altitude.
After a bit of a rest, the climbing team headed out on April 7 to the town of Lobuche (4910m) a significant gain in altitude. They were surrounded by subalpine vegetation and the bleak, stunning scenery of the Upper Khumbu Glacier region. A plethora of peaks are now visible, including Kantega (6685m) and Thamserku (6608m) pictured above––along with the spectacular Pumori (7165m) and Nuptse (7861m).
On April 8 the team went on another hike out of Labouche, which saw them cross over the 5000m mark. The above picture features the climbing team in front of Nuptse. Reports are that everyone is in great spirits, healthy and eager to arrive at Base Camp.
April 9 started as every other climbing day: bags packed by 7am and breakfast eaten in time for an 8am departure. Out on the grassy slopes the team stopped for tea at Gorak Shep (5140m) before continuing along the rock trail to Base Camp where they were greeted with a hearty lunch. The Sherpa team had spent preceding weeks preparing the camp, which will be home for the next 7 weeks. The image above is of the dining tent.
From here Michael will rest, before another Puja ceremony, specific training for the Khumbu Icefall and the start of the Mt Everest Ascent proper.
Tuesday, April 3, 2007
First Views of Everest
During yesterday's acclimatisation hike at around 3800m, the team caught their first glimpse of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and other Himalayan peaks in the Khumbu region.
Monday, April 2, 2007
On the Road
It's a 9-day journey to Mt Everest Base Camp. Michael has met up with the team from Adventure Consultants and they're on their way!
On April 1 the team flew from Kathmandu to Lukla, before trekking to Phakding a small town at about 2,610m elevation. 
Michael and team (pictured taking a well-earned rest at a tea house) spent yesterday shouldering their packs on the way to Namche, which is the gateway to the high Himalayas.
The team is in good spirits and will spend today in rest mode, which means they'll be acclimatising to the new altitude (Namache is at about 3,440m).
But rest mode on the way to Everest is a little different to what you might expect: the team will be taking a bit of a 'stroll' where they expect to get their first glimpses of Everest and the upper valleys. In between it's food, rest and mental preparation for the days ahead.
