It's a historic day for climbers and climbing in Western Australia. One of Michael's best friends has summited Mt Everest by the North Col route.
• Here's a message from Michael:
Hi Guys
Just a quick note to give you some great news. Sheeny (Mark Sheen) summited Everest this morning. Thankfully he decided to use supplementary oxygen. He did the climb amazingly quickly too. It can often take up to 10 hours to reach the summit: he made it in just under five hours... This really is world class!
I cant stress enough what an amazing life achievement this is. He's been through a lot in his life, but everything has come together for him this time. He will go down in history as the first West Australian to achieve this.
Today is a good day. I am hellishly proud of the Sheen. Well done mate. You are an inspiration.
Mikey
• And here's an excerpt from Mark's climbing team at DCXP:
At 12:05am 5th June Mark Sheen set out from high camp... Mark summited at 4:56am in time for dawn on the summit and set a blistering pace of only 4hrs 51minutes, wow! Must be that high flow oxygen at 4L/min combined with awesome fitness, top job Mark.
Feel free to leave your well-wishes for Mark Sheen under this post and we'll be sure he reads them.
Monday, June 4, 2007
Mike's Mate Mark Mounts the Mountain
Wednesday, May 16, 2007
The West Australian Update 17 May 2007
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
The Everest Interview
Michael Dunjey gave his first extended interview yesterday covering his Everest Ascent and a whole lot more. You can find the interview here.
Monday, May 14, 2007
Michael Writes From... Perth?
Read what Michael had to say about his trip as he writes from Perth, Western Australia.
Greetings Everyone
Well at least some of you will be surprised to learn that this update is being written from the warmth and oxygen rich environment of my home in Perth... alas the Everest Trip has come to an end.
It was the experience of a life time and was certainly worth all the training, the time, the money and the myriad of training trips and expeditions that needed to take place in the years leading up to this Grand Adventure.
In some ways I achieved more than I thought I ever could. In other ways there is of course disappointment. The timing of this letter dictates the summit was not achieved and naturally the summit is what every climber wants. The very nature of Everest though is that most climbers will not reach its summit. If every climber that ventured their way to Everest summitted, then indeed Everest would not have the reputation it still holds. Every mountain I have been on is difficult. But what surprises most climbers who attempt Everest is just how hard it is. There are no easy climbing days on Everest. That was learned by our team very quickly.
But let me go back to the beginning and explain why my trip was curtailed.
The 1st of May and the team was at Camp 2. It was our second day there and the following morning we were scheduled to climb the Lhotse face in proper for the first time in order to reach our goal of staying one night at Camp 3 without the use of bottled Oxygen.
Our Guides had warned us that this day would most likely the physical crux of the entire expedition for the majority of us. If a climber can reach Camp 3 and survive well, then its time to return all the way to Base Camp for a well deserved rest, before returning to the mountain for the summit bid. Camp 3 is considered the Litmus Test. By making it to this height without the use of supplementary bottled oxygen it is proof your body is ready to attempt the remainder of the mountain.
The reason this day is considered the hardest day is that the next time (ie. on the summit bid) you return to Camp 3, bottled oxygen is given to you as soon as you set foot inside your tent. This of course makes life far easier than the trip to this height with the O2. You sleep on bottled oxygen, rest on it and of course climb with it. This does not mean that the final two days of climbing are not incredibly difficult still, but the benefits of bottled oxygen are many. There is an increase in concentration as you are receiving extra oxygen to the brain. Your body warms up––especially hands and feet––and of course climbing itself becomes that little bit easier as the extra air you breathe is effectively dropping the altitude by approximately 1,000m.
And so it was on the 1st May that I muttered to the Guides my famous last words “I cant believe how perfectly this trip is going for me”. The Guides had agreed. It is the first expedition I had been on without incident. No sickness for the entire trip, acclimatisation was perfect, an ideal team, and I was climbing very well. About a week before I had climbed with some other team members and one Guide to approx 7,100 metres on the Lhotse face. Incidentally, many teams use this height as Camp 3. There is no fixed position for the camps, just rough general areas in which they are chosen by the different teams. Once again it was a hard day, but we were all stoked with the fact that we had made this height so early on in the trip without any undue side effects.
Only one thing had been bothering me and that was cold hands. All mountaineers are quite used to cold hands. Quite realistically – what else does one expect when you are on Mt Everest. The morning we set off to Camp three was the fourth day in a row that my hands were particularly cold. Things were still going well however. I was actually directly behind the Lead Guide – leading the way up the Lhotse face when things started going wrong. The Guide simply said to me ‘Mike, after this section you will need your ascender as well as your ice axe’. If he had not said those words I believe I would have lost fingers. In response to him I needed to take off my pack to get access to my ice axe. Ten minutes later I found I was still trying to locate my pack buckles so I could remove the pack from my waist. I could not understand why I could not just remove my pack. It then suddenly dawned on me that I could not feel my pack because I could not feel my hands.
A friend of mine called Mark Sheen got frost bite about nine months ago on a mountain called Broad Peak. I was irate that he could be so careless to get frost bite. I mean how hard is it. Your hands get cold – you put more gloves on…simple. But his reasoning was that there is such a fine line between cold hands and your hands getting damaged. Well unfortunately I must now agree with him. Like I said my hands had been cold for four days in a row. This day did not feel any worse. You are concentrating on what you are doing and trying to block out all discomforts. If I had not been asked to remove my pack I would never have known that my hands had gone from cold to non operational. I let the Guide know and he removed my gloves. All ten fingers were dead white and wooden or glassy to the touch and well on their way to freezing. The guide started rubbing them and I could not feel a thing. At that stage it was a pretty easy decision as to the next action.
We were just below Camp 3 but to spend the night at that height and in the cold conditions would have been completely illogical with my hands in that condition. So it was that along with a guide, I immediately turned around, headed back down the face and returned to Camp 2. Every fifteen minutes or so we would stop and I would remove my gloves and place my hands in the guides arm pits…. Does not sound great I know, but the most effective way to return some warmth to damaged digits.
Once at the relative safety and comfort of Camp 2 (800m lower than where we initially were). Taking my gloves off they had already started swelling and turning black…Oh Joy. I was placed on bottled O2 immediately. This aids directly in returning circulation to the extremities. My hands were placed in a warm bath of water for the next hour. Who knows how bad my fingers may have got. But I feel with the immediate action that was taken in getting me back down, the oxygen etc, that at least three of my fingers were saved from the chop. (The second, third and fourth fingers on my right hand still have no sensation, but this should return over the next several months.)
The next immediate decision on this was unfortunately also an easy one. If your hands or feet get badly damaged like this once on a trip, there is no way you tempt fate and return back up the mountain. Once there is a severe cold injury, it does not just return to normal in one week – it takes months. So climbing again in one year would of course be fine. But climbing back up on Everest on this trip was out of the question unless you had a wish to lose fingers.
So what does it all mean?
There are positive things to take away from the expedition and there are of course disappointments. I climbed very high on Everest. I saw the summit before me. It looked so close. The reality was it was still 10 to 18 hours away. But in the scheme of an eight week trip it felt so close. Many climbers would consider I had achieved the physical crux of the mountain. Yes, there were two hard days left of climbing if I had joined the summit bid, and yes they are two very, very hard days. But the difference is––as explained before––on the summit bid supplementary bottled oxygen is used and this makes life significantly easier.
How are my hands now?
All ten fingers are damaged, and the second, third and fourth fingers on my right hand still have no sensation at all. The doctors expect this to return in the next 6 to 9 months.
Would I have made the summit if the frost bite had not happened?
This naturally can’t be answered definitively and to an extent is almost useless for me to answer. (However my gut feel is I would have had as good a chance as anyone.) I had been strong up until that point––significantly with no sickness or negative effects due to altitude. I was also climbing very strongly as far as a western climber is considered. But on the other hand there are still so many things that can go wrong at the very last stages as well. So Yes, I think I had a very good shot at summiting, but the truth is you never know what can happen on Mount Everest. A friend of mine Ed Bradley who climbed Everest in 2004 was very strong for the entire trip, but had to turn around only 100m from the summit of Everest due to an incoming weather system. This is what makes Everest such a challenge. There aren’t 10 variables that go into making a summit, there are hundreds and unfortunately a certain amount of luck needs to be on your side.
It was an amazing journey––a journey that’s taken close to 15 years. I have loved every second of it. It’s too soon to ask what my next plans are. Suffice to say it’s awesome to be back with my wife and it will be great to have a holiday.
Thank you all so much for your support and I look forward to catching up with you soon and showing off some photographs of the upper slopes of the highest mountain in the world.
Those who are interested can continue to track the progress of the Adventure Consultants Climbing Team here.
Sunday, May 6, 2007
The West Australian Update 06 May 2007
Wednesday, May 2, 2007
Safely at C3 (7400m)
Yesterday Michael arrived at Camp 3, the highest point on the trip so far at 7400m.
The climb from Base Camp to Camp 1 over the Khumbu Icefall is approached with respect. The climb from Camp 1 to Camp 2 lacks the technicality of BC to C1, but the Western Cwm can produce some spectacularly stifling, warm days––making it hard going at altitude. But the climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 produces it's own kind of trials.
One of the AC guides put it like this: "The sheer immensity of the Lhotse Face (1400m), the punishing winds which funnel down it, hard surface ice conditions, the huge altitude and the fact you have to camp in the midst of the face, combine to make the trip to C3 a major upper mountain test."
Yesterday, 2 May, Michael and the main climbing team left C2 and climbed halfway up the Lhotse face to C3. Reports are they made the climb in good time. The goal was to spend one night at C3 without oxygen, typically a restless night but a defining point in demonstrating that the acclimatisation program has been completed.
Upon arrival, the climbers set about melting snow and preparing to rest in their tents, which are secured with ropes and anchors to the mountain face. Today they will begin their descent, eventually to Base Camp where another rest cycle commences in anticipation of the first attempt upon the summit.
Go Mikey! Go!
Lhotse Face - Images
• Top Image: Mark & Andrea
• Middle Image: Guy & Sebastian
• Bottom Image: Frank, Chuck & Climbing Group
Sunday, April 29, 2007
Resting at Camp 2
A couple of days rest at Camp 2 and Michael will set off to tackle the Lhotse face on his way to Camp 3.
Michael spent 30 April and 1 May resting at Camp 2 (6400m) and planning the next move up the Lhotse Face with the other climbers. Their next target, Camp 3 (7400m), is located about half way up the Lhotse face, which rises some 5000 feet in total from Camp 2. Everyone has some apprehension about this portion of the climb, including Michael. A couple of the Adventure Consultants guides went ahead to Camp 3 today (1 May) and should be arriving even as this update is written.
Now if you've wondered what kind of abode one inhabits at Camp 2 for hours of reading, listening to music, napping and generally recovering from the previous climb and preparing for the next, check out Mark's digs below.
Summiting Everest appears to be one way to free oneself of those pesky rent inspections.
Michael Writes From Everest
Hear what Michael had to say about his trip when he took a few minutes to tap away during his most recent visit to Base Camp.
The Journey So Far
The trek into Base Camp was amazing––stunningly beautiful. Adventure Consultants had a twenty member team that followed us into Base Camp. As you know, thousands of people hike to Everest BC every year, but very few go on to climb the mountain. The trekkers had a great time but found it very hard going with one of the members needing to be placed in a temporary oxygen chamber––and death may certainly have been possible.
For many of the trekkers making it to Base Camp was the highlight of their physical lives. Once the climbers made it to BC we had four days or so to rest and acclimatise and get ready for our first trip to the Ice Fall. The ice fall is a randomly jumbled block of ice and crevasses that rises 700m into the western cwm. The first time up we only went half way––it was absolutely exhausting for everyone. This was the real dividing line between the climbers and the trekkers––I daresay none of the trekkers could have done it. We are talking the equivalent of a marathon or up and down bluff knoll four times in a row. We were all shattered and disappointed. Apparently this is the norm for all climbers on their first time up.
After that first climb in the ice fall we had two days rest before climbing all the way up to Camp 1. It was easier this time to get to our previous highpoint on the ice fall, but going twice the distance all the way to Camp 1 was still shattering. We crossed about twenty ladders that span the crevasses––very scary at first as the crampons do not stick on the ladder rungs but slide, and the ladders themselves sway in all three directions––but you do get used to them after a while. I learned quickly not to look down (as the crevasses can drop forever) and to concentrate on the rungs and my crampon points. The ice fall moves about four meters per day and so the route up and down constantly changes. There are ice fall doctors who are employed by all the expeditions to keep the ice fall route open––it’s the most dangerous job on the mountain and every year there will be fatalities.
The reward at getting to the top of the ice fall is that you break out into the Western cwm––a massive almost valley that snakes its way up to the Lhotse face––surrounded on all side by either Everest and other mountains, including Nuptse. Edumund Hillary described this as one of the most beautiful sights on earth and most of our climbing team agreed.
The next day we traveled to Camp 2. Once again, from what we had read, this was meant to be an ok day. But now we know that on Everest nothing ever comes easy. Again all the marathoners on the team (ie. Most of the team) agreed that the journey from Camp 1 to Camp 2 was the equivalent of a marathon or more. However, the more we walked and climbed, the more we started to see the upper shores of Mt Everest open up before our eyes before finally, after three long weeks, we actually got to see the summit of the mountain we have all dreamed about climbing.
We stayed at Camp 2 for two nights and then ascended to the base of the Lhotse face. This was an amazing achievement as we arrived at 7000m far earlier than most other teams seeking to climb Everest this season. It was just a day trip for acclimatisation but we were able to see the route to Camp 3. We returned to Camp 2 to sleep before descending to Base Camp in one day. This was, by far, the most exhausting day yet and marked my third vomit of the trip and marked the end of the first third of our time here at Everest.
We’re now resting at Base Camp. On Friday we move back up the mountain with the goal of spending 8 days on the mountain. Our primary goal is to sleep one night at Camp 3 at 7300m. If we can do this then it essentially means we’re ready to go back down to Base Camp to rest for a week before making our summit bid. Many successful Everest climbers have actually said this trip to Camp 3 is the crux of the trip. When you go to Camp 3 for the second time––on the summit bid––you go on to support oxygen straight away. But the first time up you have to prove yourself worthy of the mountain and sleep on your own lungs. I don’t think anyone really sleeps or eats 7300m.
In all honesty, I am scared and nervous about this next trip up as it will be a real test of my acclimatisation and strength. The guides have been extremely diligent and gave us all performance appraisals for our climbing so far. They believe I can summit the mountain, but only if I improve my caloric intake. It’s something I really need to concentrate on. Their goal for me is that whilst I’m climbing I always have something in my mouth––even if it’s just hard candy. The altitude does mess with my appetite. This has probably been the hardest time of my life. It is very easy to get down, agitated, depressed, nervous and home sick. But I always know in the back of my head that there is a job that needs to be done to the best of my ability. In the end, the outcome of this trip is in my Creator’s hands.
BC -> C1 -> C2
After a minor hiccup at Base Camp, Michael and his comrades-in-climbing made excellent progress through to the now-familiar sites of Camp 1 and Camp 2.
After waking up at 4am on 27 April to begin an 8-day journey on the mountain, Michael and the team discovered that the ice fall route between base camp and camp 1 had been closed due to an avalanche. Avalanches aren't uncommon, but it was back to base camp for another day of enforced rest and general shenanigans (see Chuck––possibly a direct descendent of Santa Claus––practising his tight-rope walking skills below). The icefall route was cleared and opened later in the afternoon.
The next morning, 28 April, saw the team set off amid blustery conditions. The team climbed smoothly and strongly through the morning, arriving at Camp 1 (6100m) by 11.30am. The image above shows the tents at Camp 1, where Michael napped, read and prepared for the next day's elevation gain to Camp 2.
Heading out into a cold morning on 29 April, Michael and his fellow climbers made excellent progress to Camp 2. They made the journey in 4 hours, with only 30 minutes separating the front of the climbing group from the rear. Above is a picture of small avalanche they witnessed on the way up. By all accounts they are climbing strongly and acclimatising well. Mark observed that the team's appetites have improved and that the air felt thicker at this altitude, which is all great news for their continued progress.
Thursday, April 26, 2007
Last Rest Day Before Climb to Camp 3
Today Michael enjoys his last day of rest at Base Camp before heading off for his second extended foray up the mountain.
Tomorrow morning Michael will eat breakfast and set out early before the heat of the day unsettles the ice fall. His goal is to spend 8 days on the mountain, reaching and sleepint at Camp 3, which is found on the Lhotse face at 7300m. Completing this part of the climb will mean he's ready to descend to Base Camp to rest for about a week before pushing to Camp 4 and a summit attempt. Things are heating up, but the climbing team still found time for a group photo.
Pictured
Back: Luis, Seb, Mark, Baxter, Guy
Middle: Michael, Suze, Mike, Cat, Chuck, Cedric
Front: Chris, Andrea, Frank, Dave
Wednesday, April 25, 2007
Base Camp-o Relax-o
Base Camp has been taken over by the rhythm of rest and recovery. And that's easier for some climbers than others.
Michael spent 24 April not basking in the glory of Everest but attending to the rudimentary––laundry, eating, resting and generally meandering around camp. His acclimatisation is going well. The evening meal of salmon pasta was celebrated with a disco theme. Judging from the picture below, Michael is also investing considerable energy in growing some kind of facial hair accompaniment... Pulp Fiction [imdb] was the movie of choice.
The rest cycle continued on 25 April with general shenanigans, discussions about politics and what constitutes good music (Mike we love you but you're no authority on this one), and showering.
Tomorrow, Michael will set off for another trip up the Mountain. The goal this time will be to spend around 8 days on the mountain reaching Camp 3 (7300m) and spending a night there. Seasoned Everest climbers regard this as the crux of the trip. If Michael is able to complete this leg, he'll have the physical and mental resources to make a successful summit bid. The next time he'd see Camp 3 would be to pick up some additional oxygen support on his way to the summit, weather permitting.
Monday, April 23, 2007
Back at Base Camp
Base Camp is a relief after Michael's first week on the hill. The entire team is now back and continuing to work hard at recovery by doing not very much.
The final 2 climbers returned to Base Camp yesterday and they are all soaking up the splendid weather, culinary delights from the kitchen staff and the comparatively warm temperatures. Being able to shower, shave and change has led to feelings of cleanliness and relief! Michael and crew watched The World's Fastest Indian [imdb] yesterday afternoon. Importantly his appetite is improved at Base Camp and the kitchen staff are obliging all the climbers. Below is a picture of Cedric (USA) passing through an ice arch:
How does acclimatisation work?
The concentration of oxygen at sea level is about 21%. The higher one goes the lower the barometric pressure. For example, at about 3,650m the barometric pressure is less than 65% of sea level pressures meaning less oxygen molecules per breath. To properly oxygenate one's body the breathing rate has to increase––but it can't reach sea level concentrations, so the body must adjust to having less oxygen while it is climbing a mountain!
With time, one's body adapts to the decreased availability of oxygen at a given altitude. This usually takes 1 to 3 days at that altitude and is known as acclimatisation. By spending 1 to 3 days at particular altitudes the body adapts by increasing the depth of respiration, the pressure in pulmonary arteries goes up forcing blood into parts of the lung not used at sea level, the body produces more oxygen-carrying red blood cells as well as a particular enzyme that helps release oxygen from hemoglobin to the body tissues.
It's not unusual to experience mild symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) during acclimatisation. Some of these include: headache, dizziness, fatigue, shortness of breath, loss of appetite, nausea, disturbed sleep and generally feeling pretty shabby. These usually subside within a couple of days as the body acclimatises.
So that's why Michael will be up and down the mountain about 3 times in all.
Sunday, April 22, 2007
An exercise in up and down
Michael has reached another milestone with the Camp 2 acclimatisation process complete.
Today, the full team will be assembled at Base Camp for a multi-day rest cycle in anticipation of another foray up the Mountain. But that wasn't without an additional climb beyond Camp 2 and the longest descent so far.
On 21 April Michael took his second acclimatisation walk beyond Camp 2, arriving at the base of the Lhotse face. Michael will need to climb this wall of glacial blue ice, which rises about 1,125m, using fixed ropes later. It rises at a 40-50 degree pitch with some 80 degree 'bulges' as well. But that's all coming up... The picture above features the climbing team in front of the face of nearby Nuptse.
Michael and his climbing compadres commenced their descent from Camp 2 at 6am on 22 April in windy, cold conditions. Working in three small groups, the first two groups arrived in Camp 1 by 7.45am and by 4pm all three groups were back at Base Camp. Pictured above: Two climbers, Cedric and Mike (not our Mike), are spending an additional night at Camp 2 and will arrive at Base Camp sometime today.
It sounds as if things are progressing well, the climbers are healthy and the plan is proving successful. By all accounts the weather has been great and with some rest and recuperation they should be set to commence their next climbs shortly. We hope to hear from Micahel while he's at Base Camp & we'll make excerpts from his diary available through The West Australian news updates.
While we can't promise anything––Michael's focus is on climbing––feel free to post any brief questions you might have for Michael and we may be able to glean some more insights while he's at Base Camp.
Wednesday, April 18, 2007
Camp 2: 6,400m and climbing
Arrival at Camp 2, sweltering Everest heat, burritos and bug-eyed bathroom shenanigans. It's all part of the journey...
Michael arrived safely at Camp 2 on 18 April after an early morning start. The team sweltered in the heat of the sheltered Western Cym and enjoyed breathtaking scenery like this shot of some sherpas beneath the face of Lhotse.
They arrived at Camp 2 and the effects of the new altitude (6400m) was apparent. The team rested the next day and enjoyed a gentle afternoon snow shower (below) while dining on burritos–-perhaps that explains the bug-eyed bathroom visits more so than the altitude?
Camp 2 is an advanced base camp. That means there's lots of gear and extra supplies to fuel more climbing down the track. Michael and the other climbers have a heated dining tent and two full-time kitchen staff at Camp 2. As far as hardy Everest climbs go, this is a little piece of gourmet at 6400m altitude! Here's a picture of Camp 2 from a distance:
After resting on 19 April, some of the climbers––including Michael––set out for a gentle meander today (20 April). By all reports the day was magnificent with some great views of Cho Oyu, a peak Michael visited in 2004. Here's a picture of Micahel with Chuck, Seb, Andrea & Dave.
All up Michael gained an additional 200m in altitude on this climb before returning to Camp 2. Tomorrow the team will attempt to climb higher to the base of the Lhotse face.
Tuesday, April 17, 2007
'Twas a Stormy Night
A snowy stormy night passes to reveal breathtaking views of the southwest face of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse.
The climbing team enjoys breakfast together after a bit of a sleep in. It was well-earned after the punishing first climb to Camp 1. Now it's just a matter of adjusting to the new altitude and recovering. Tomorrow, Michael will be up early and heading off to Camp 2.
Monday, April 16, 2007
Safe Arrival at Camp 1
Michael and the other climbers have made it to Everest Camp 1!
The team left Base Camp at about 5am yesterday morning for a long 8+ hour climb to Camp 1 (6100m) with temperatures ranging from -10 to +30. From midday onwards yesterday the climbers arrived, exhausted, at Camp 1 where they turned their attention to resting, recovery and rehydration.
This is a signifcant step on the journey as Michael has now navigated the technical ropes and ladders required for the Khumbu Icefall. From Camp 1 Michael can see the Western Cym (Cym being Welsh for 'valley'), which is bordered by Everest to the North, Lhotse to the East and Nuptse to the South. Reports are the views are spectacular with the top of Everest seen poking through the clouds.
All up the team will be on Mt Everest for 7 days, pushing beyond Camp 1 to Camp 2 and the base of Lhotse at 7000m. This is one of three concerted pushes up the mountain. Before departing, Michael said: "I think everyone in camp is feeling similarly to me: a little nervous about the pain we know is coming, but also looking forward to seeing the mountain."
Sunday, April 15, 2007
Khumbu, Borat and Beyond
Over the last couple of days things have certainly ramped up at Mt Everest. Michael is on his way up the Hill for his first trip to Camp 1.
On April 13 Michael finally had his first trip beyond Base Camp. The team spent about 3 hours on the Khumbu Icefall, climbing almost halfway to Camp 1, which involves a gain in elevation of some 300m. The icefall is a dangerous. Apart from one particularly interesting crevasse (get video) the climb was relatively uneventful. 
But that's not to say it wasn't taxing. Several of the climbers on the team have run marathons and they likened the three hour climb at 5,000m to running a marathon. In Michael's words: "Just got back from first climb up the mountain. I am exhausted... Absolutely."
The next day, April 14, was a welcomed rest day. The kitchen team (pictured) brought hot drinks and hot towels to Michael and his mates. Over breakfast the team discussed the merits of the film Borat, which they viewed the previous evening. Apparently the entire team did not quite appreciate the style or content of the film––but where are you going to go? I'm confident Michael was enthusiastic in his support for some comic relief.
Yesterday was April 15 and another day of active rest at Base Camp. But unlike the previous rest day, the camp was full of activity as Michael and the other climbers and guides (pictured) prepared their packs to head up the Mountain. It sounds as if a consistent feature of the emotional climate on the trip has been a mixture of nerves and excitement. With loads packed and checked it was time to relax and prepare for the effort ahead. Michael will spend his first night on the mountain tonight (April 16) and we hope to have word from the team shortly.
Saturday, April 14, 2007
The West Australian Update 14 April 2007
The West Australian continues to track Michael's progress. Read the latest here.
Friday, April 13, 2007
Preparing for the Khumbu Icefalls
Puja ceremonies, the sounds of avalanches at night and icy obstacle courses. It's all happening on the hill. 
On April 11, the climbing team celebrated another Puja ceremony at Base Camp, complete with Sherpa's singing & dancing while a Lama recites prayers, cymbals clashed, drums banged and drinks passed around. It's all part of the traditional request for safe passage and success, and without it the Sherpas refuse to climb beyond Base Camp. You can download a short clip courtesy of Adventure Consultants here. It sounds like Michael and his fellow climbers are quite relaxed amidst the intesity of snow wind squalls, the cold, the altitude and the sounds of avalanches at night!
Yesterday, April 12, saw Michael and the other climbers spend the morning organising their climbing equipment in preparation for training and the eventual steps up Everest beyond base camp. Some sherpas have started to carry loads to Camp 1 and Camp 2 in anticipation of the team's arrival in the next few days. Today, they organised their gear and tested themselves on an obstacle course at the base of the icefall.
The route Michael will take through the ice fall is a winding path of fixed ropes and ladder climbs and crossings. He should be able to hear the glacier creaking and cracking as they cross it repeatedly on journeys between Base Camp and Camp 1. Needless to say, training days like today's are vital for cultivating the focus required to climb the icefall safely.
Tuesday, April 10, 2007
Feasting by the Mountain
Michael and team enjoy a rest day that culminates in a high-altitude party!
So far the Adventure Consultants team has consisted of two groups: the trekking team and the climbing team. The trekking team accomplished their goal of making it to the Everest base camp yesterday and celebrated their feat with the climbing team in style. Nothing like a party on the side of an enormous rock to buoy everyone's spirits––the glee is clearly on their faces in this image! After feasting in style last night, the trekking team heads down today and the climbing team, of which Michel is part, continues their physical and mental preparation. In the spirit of preparation, here are some facts about The Mountain:
• In Nepal, it's name (Sagarmatha) means 'goddess of the sky'
• In Tibet, it's name (Chomolungma) means 'mother goddess of the universe'
• Everest rises a few millimeters each year because of geological forces
• Babu Chiri Sherpa spent 21.5hrs without oxygen at the top of the summit for the longest time at the top––even sleeping there.
• Babu Chiri Sherpa is worth reading more about. Get to know him here and here.
Monday, April 9, 2007
Welcome to Base Camp
While much of the world celebrated Easter, Michael and his climbing team made an elevated journey to the Mt Everest Base Camp, where a whole new journey is about to begin.
On April 5 the team trekked to Pheriche (4240m) where the climbers participated in a traditional Puja ceremony. This hindu ceremony involves the offering of prayers and blessings for safety and success. You can see Michael being blessed by Llama Geshe above. The team stayed a The White Yak (if you're ever in the vicinity you can check it out here) for two nights to acclimatise to the new altitude.
After a bit of a rest, the climbing team headed out on April 7 to the town of Lobuche (4910m) a significant gain in altitude. They were surrounded by subalpine vegetation and the bleak, stunning scenery of the Upper Khumbu Glacier region. A plethora of peaks are now visible, including Kantega (6685m) and Thamserku (6608m) pictured above––along with the spectacular Pumori (7165m) and Nuptse (7861m).
On April 8 the team went on another hike out of Labouche, which saw them cross over the 5000m mark. The above picture features the climbing team in front of Nuptse. Reports are that everyone is in great spirits, healthy and eager to arrive at Base Camp.
April 9 started as every other climbing day: bags packed by 7am and breakfast eaten in time for an 8am departure. Out on the grassy slopes the team stopped for tea at Gorak Shep (5140m) before continuing along the rock trail to Base Camp where they were greeted with a hearty lunch. The Sherpa team had spent preceding weeks preparing the camp, which will be home for the next 7 weeks. The image above is of the dining tent.
From here Michael will rest, before another Puja ceremony, specific training for the Khumbu Icefall and the start of the Mt Everest Ascent proper.
Tuesday, April 3, 2007
First Views of Everest
During yesterday's acclimatisation hike at around 3800m, the team caught their first glimpse of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and other Himalayan peaks in the Khumbu region.
Monday, April 2, 2007
On the Road
It's a 9-day journey to Mt Everest Base Camp. Michael has met up with the team from Adventure Consultants and they're on their way!
On April 1 the team flew from Kathmandu to Lukla, before trekking to Phakding a small town at about 2,610m elevation. 
Michael and team (pictured taking a well-earned rest at a tea house) spent yesterday shouldering their packs on the way to Namche, which is the gateway to the high Himalayas.
The team is in good spirits and will spend today in rest mode, which means they'll be acclimatising to the new altitude (Namache is at about 3,440m).
But rest mode on the way to Everest is a little different to what you might expect: the team will be taking a bit of a 'stroll' where they expect to get their first glimpses of Everest and the upper valleys. In between it's food, rest and mental preparation for the days ahead.
Saturday, March 31, 2007
The West Australian Update 31 March 2007
Another update from The West Australian on the eve of Michael's departure.
Stay on top with The West
by Jennifer Curtis
A Perth man who hopes to become the first WA-born climber to reach the summit of Mt Everest flies to Kathmandu today (Thursday) where he will join an international expedition. For 34-year-old Michael Dunjey of Manning the adventure represents more than ten-years of dreaming, planning and rigorous training.
“It’s hard to know if I’m ready. Hopefully I’ll be able to answer that question positively in May when all things going well I should summit Mt Everest,” he said.
“I’m not nervous at this stage as I guess I’ve been so busy in the lead up to it it’s taken my mind off the big event but I’m sure when I get on the plane things will get a bit nervy then. I think about half-way through the ten-day trek into base camp you start to be able to see the mountain in the distance so I think that’s when the whole team will get particularly excited.”
Mr Dunjey and the rest of his team from Adventure Consultants will travel to Lukla from Kathmandu to begin the trek to Everest base camp. He will spend approximately four-weeks acclimatizing and resting before pushing for the summit during the third week of May. Follow Mr Dunjey’s progress up Mt Everest in The West Australian which will be providing weekly updates, diary extracts and photographs.
See the article here.
Wednesday, March 28, 2007
Michael's International Team:
Introducing Adventure Consultants
Michael has left Perth and is on his way to join an international expedition led by the team at Adventure Consultants.
Adventure Consultants are a team of extremely capable and experienced guides who specialise in high altitude climbs. Michael will be part of a small group, with numbers intentionally restricted to help the expedition run smoothly. Adventure Consultants maintain a high standard of medical back up, high quality expedition resources (including communications & weather forecasting technology) and excellent catering for strength and nutrition. Travelling with such a respected team of guides will give Michael every opportunity to summit. Now it comes down to his years of preparation and the weather!
You can track Michael's progress via the Adventure Consultants Everest 2007 dispatch page here.
Expedition Staff
Expedition Leader - Guy Cotter (NZ)
Assistant Guides - Mike Roberts (NZ),Luis Benitez (USA), Mark Sedon (NZ) and Ang Dorjee Sherpa (Nepal/USA)
Team Members
Frank Slachman (USA)
Baxter Gillespie (USA)
Michael Dunjey (AUS)
Andrea Moore (NZ/UK)
Chuck McGibbon (USA)
Cedric Hayden (USA)
Dave Arnett (USA)
Sebastien Glorie (BEL)
Chris Burrows (USA)
Post Your Messages For Michael Here
Michael's going to be checking in here from Mt Everest. To make it easy for him to find your well-wishes, post them here. Think of it as Base Camp for your encouraging sentiments...
Tuesday, March 27, 2007
Media Release:
Dunjey Departs Perth For Everest Summit
Tomorrow morning (29 March), Michael Dunjey will fly from Perth to Kathmandu, where he will join an international expedition in his attempt to become the first WA-born climber to summit Mt Everest.
The summit attempt represents over ten years of dreaming, planning and rigorous training for the 34-year-old Manning resident.
“With just one day to go before I leave Australia I’m pretty excited,” said Dunjey. “It’s hard to know if I’m ready. Hopefully I’ll be able to answer that question positively in mid-May when I should summit Mt Everest, all things going well.”
Dunjey will fly from Perth to Kathmandu where he will join his team from Adventure Consultants. From there the team travels to Lukla to commence the trek to Everest Base Camp. Michael will spend around 4 weeks acclimatising and resting before pushing for the summit between May 13 – 25.
Track Michael’s progress with regular updates from this website and in weekly updates in The West Australian newspaper.
Please direct media enquiries to:
Brad Birt | Michael Dunjey Everest Ascent 2007 | M 0403-314-502
Monday, March 26, 2007
A Message From Michael
Greetings everyone
First of all apologies to those I have not written individual messages to in a while. My day to day has been hectic and frantic getting ready for one of the biggest trips of my life. So for those I have not contacted recently, this is to let you know I am off to Everest on Thursday morning.
This of course is something I have been dreaming of, training for and planning for a very long time. Am I ready? Who knows. That question will be answered around mid May when all going well, I will be on the summit attempt. What I do know is that I can’t see any other time in my life that will be better suited to giving this mountain some sort of reasonable challenge.
The basic itinerary is as follows:
• March 30 | Arrive Kathmandu. Begin gear checks. Team briefing.
• March 31 | Final gear checks
• April 1 | Fly to Lukla
• April 1 – 9 | Trek to Base Camp
• April 10 – May 4 | Establish camps and acclimitise.
• May 5 – 12 | Rest at Base Camp or lower down the valley
• May 13 – 25 | Summit Climb
• May 26 – 27 | Depart Base Camp
• May 27 – June 1 | Trek to Lukla
You can stay up to date with happenings on The Hill at this website, which will be updated a couple of times a week. It's hoped people will leave messages of support here as I'll be reading these regularly on The Hill. The other site to check is the climbing team site, which you can find here. This site will be particularly good on the summit push when it will be updated approximately every 15 minutes.
For the climbers out there, I finally made the decision to go with Adventure Consultants – a New Zealand team. It was a hard decision. My loyalties had lay with a British team Jagged Globe - that I had been with on three previous expeditions. But for Everest I felt the New Zealand team would suit me better. There are 9 climbers on the team. Five Americans, one New Zealander, an English girl, a Belgian and finally me the only Australian. The guides are all New Zealanders.
For everyone who has messaged me in the past month, I want to thank you very much for your support. I am just sorry I have not been able to get back to each of you individually.
One final big thank you to my awesome wife Aimee. She has been unbelievable with her patience and support of my pursuits. I look forward to seeing her and everybody else in approximately ten weeks.
Bye for now
Michael
Thursday, March 15, 2007
Sponsors:
Wesley College
We're pleased to announce that Michael's alma mater, Wesley College, has added their support to the growing list of sponsors aligning themselves with Team Dunjey.
Michael attended secondary school at Wesley College from 1986 to 1990. He represented Wesley in athletics and cross country where the foundations of the fitness required for an ascent such as this were laid.
We welcome Wesley College and the Old Wesley Collegians' Association and thank them sincerely for their support.
Wesley College
Coode Street
South Perth
Phone: (08) 9368 8000
Contact: Judy Greaney
Email: jgreaney@wesley.wa.edu.au
Wednesday, March 7, 2007
Sponsors:
Belmont Chiropractic
Training and climbing is physical. So we're particularly happy to welcome Belmont Chiropractic, who have aligned themselves with Team Dunjey as sponsors.
Belmont Chiropractic have been helping people put the pieces together to enjoy healthier and more robust lives for ages. Their website is coming soon, but they'll be more than happy to straighten you out if you contact them.
Belmont Chiropractic
203 Wright Street
Cloverdale
Phone: (08) 9478-1777
Email: belchiro@iinet.net.au
Wednesday, February 28, 2007
Sponsors:
The Marpik Group
We'd like to welcome The Marpik Group to Michael's team as our newest sponsors.
The Marpik Group offers a range of business development and accounting services to a diversity of clients. You can read more about their work by taking a look at their website, which is here.
Wednesday, February 21, 2007
Michael in the media
The countdown is on to Michael's historic summit attempt at Mt Everest. In the lead-up there's been considerable media interest.
Michael has shared his story with the following radio, television and print media:
• 6PR Nightline
• ABC Radio Breakfast
• RTRFM's Morning Magazine
• Twin Cities FM
• Channel 10 Evening News
• Channel 9 Nightly News
• The Advocate News
• The West Australian
• The Southern Gazette
The West Australian will also be publishing a weekly update on Michael's journey from the end of March through until the end of May. For those of you not in Perth, you can check their website here.
Wednesday, January 17, 2007
A Week in Training
"It's a long way to the top" - AC/DC
It doesn't take a seminal hard-rock band to understand that Mt Everest is pretty high. Around 1500 people have climbed all the way to the top of Mt Everest. When you stack that up against the 4000-plus Olympic Gold Medals that have been awarded, the modern Olympics looks positively pedestrian (yeah ok, that's not even true...)
A combination of leg strength, cardiovascular fitness and the genetic ability to acclimatise are vital elements to any successful Everest attempt. Michael has been preparing for over 10 years for this climb. You can check out what a typical week of training looks like below:
Sunday
AM: Weights session
PM: A long run of 12 to 25km
Monday
Rest & recover!
Tuesday
AM: Weights session
PM: Long swim
Wednesday
PM: Jacobs Ladder (1-hour session with heavy pack)
Thursday
AM: Weights session
PM: Long cycle
Friday
AM: Fast 8k run
PM: 3 to 4 hour beach hike with heavy pack
Saturday
AM: 6 to 8 hour long hills hike with heavy pack
In addition to regular training, Michael is on a strictly controlled diet that includes 5 meals per day to make sure he has enough calories for training, one massage session and up to two physio sessions per week, as well as significant logistics planning and almost around-the-clock mental preparation.
Michael Dunjey: A Climbing Life
Michael Dunjey was born in Perth, Western Australia. He moved to Pakistan as a youngster, where his father worked as a doctor. It was there, at the base of the Himalayas, that a dream was planted in Michael's first began to dream of scaling the monstrosities.
After returning to Perth in his teens, Michael went on to complete an Engineering degree and commenced a successful engineering career. It was during this time, in the early 90s, that Michael commenced his formal climbing career with a rock-climbing course.
Multiple expeditions in Pakistan and a trip to the massive Cho Oyu in Tibet followed and Michael was thoroughly hooked. Importantly, he learned of his body’s ability to function well climbing at high altitude.
In 1996 Michael set his sights on Mt Everest. In order to free up time to train he gave up a successful engineering career to commence studies in podiatry at Curtin University of Technology.
In 2001 Michael completed his fourth major expedition to Pakistan’s Mount Spantik (7,027m), before an expedition to Muztag Ata (7,546m) in China as preparation for his Everest expedition in 2007.
As well as the necessary physique, fitness and climbing expertise, Michael has organised his
full family and professional life around 10 solid years of training and planning.
Becoming the first Western Australian-born climber to summit Mt Everest will be a significant personal achievement, but Michael also sees his efforts as a tangible way of showing others how they can set goals and take steps towards larger-than-life goals.
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
Media Release:
Perth Climber in Everest Bid for W.A. First
Perth-based mountain climber, Michael Dunjey, will seek to become the first Western Australian-born climber to summit Mt Everest when he joins an international expedition from March until June of 2007.
Thirty-four year-old Dunjey said the climb will be the culmination of a decade-long dream that has fuelled his passion for climbing.
"I've spent the last ten years in serious training for this expedition by climbing in the Himalayas and throughout Nepal, Pakistan, China and Tibet," said Dunjey.
Approximately 600 climbers attempt Everest each year, with only 100 making it to the final camp to have the opportunity - weather permitting - to push for the summit. Typically, ten climbers die each season on Mt Everest.
It has been 53 years since Edmund Hillary and Tenzig Norgay first conquered the mountain and Mt Everest still represents the pinnacle of human endeavour - the ultimate physical and mental test.
"About 1500 people have climbed Mt Everest so far," said Dunjey. "When you compare that with the 4000-plus Olympic gold medals that have been awarded, you start to get a sense for what a feat it is to summit."
Whilst Dunjey's expedition will be a remarkable personal achievement, he sees the Everest expedition as an opportunity to help others - naming Compassion Australia among the sponsors to benefit from the profile created from the summit attempt.
"Tackling Mt Everest requires sustained motivation, training, discipline and planning," said Dunjey. "I hope to use my skills and experiences to help others to dream big and to take practical steps towards achieving their dreams."
Sponsorship opportunities are available for organisations interested in aligning with this unique. Michael is also available for interviews.
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Please direct Media & Sponsorship enquiries to:
Brad Birt | m 0403.314.502 | e brad@the-globe.com.au
Thursday, January 11, 2007
Everyone has their own Everest.
Michael Dunjey's is a mountain
Welcome to the official site for Michael Dunjey's Everest Ascent 2007. Here you'll find everything you need to know about Michael's expedition as he seeks to become the first Western Australian to summit Mt Everest, including media releases, training reports and regular updates.
